Travel
Wild and free: Unforgettable NSW adventures that won’t cost a thing
New South Wales is full of lesser-known, once-in-a-lifetime nature experiences, some of which you may have unwittingly driven straight past many times.
By Amanda De George
A road trip down Australia’s east coast is something of a right of passage. Whether you’re on your Big Lap, taking a weekend away, or wining and dining your way along the coastal route, it’s a fabulous way to explore this part of the country.
But New South Wales is also full of lesser-known, jaw-on-the-floor, once-in-a-lifetime experiences you’ll want to stop for – or make a special trip just to see. So don your outdoor gear, prepare to get the legs moving and seek out some of these beauties.
The galaxy in a tunnel
It’s daunting standing at the entrance to an allegedly haunted, abandoned train tunnel as darkness falls around you. On a good night you’ve sloshed about in mud to get to this point, after rain you might be ankle deep or worse. Take a deep breath and step into the pitch blackness. Inside, one of the most spectacular shows that nature can offer awaits.
The Helensburg glow worm tunnel may only be an hour from Sydney but as it’s surrounded by tall eucalypts and fern-lined rock walls, it feels like stepping into another world. As your eyes adjust, thousands upon thousands of brilliant blue points of light twinkle above and around you – your own personal galaxy.
This area is always muddy so pack your wellies and you’ll need a red torch so that you can see where you’re walking without harming the fragile larvae. If the idea of squelching through slippery mud and uneven rail sleepers in almost total darkness is not your idea of a good time, don’t worry – the ethereal blue light from the glow worms spills out of the tunnel, so you can enjoy it without even venturing in.
If you’re prepared to walk just a little way in, the damp rock walls also sparkle with hundreds of glow worms, so while you may miss the full impact of the bioluminescence deeper inside, you’ll still be treated to a sight worth the trip.
What: Helensburg glow worm tunnel
Where: 2 Vera Street, Helensburgh
When: All year round – evening is best for maximum glow
A rainforest alive with fireflies
Located south of Wollongong in Macquarie Pass National Park, Cascade Falls is stunning. By day it’s a gorgeous, gentle hike through lush rainforest to tiered waterfalls, with lyrebirds calling as you wander. But for 4 weeks from mid November to mid December, an hour or two after the sun sets, this incredible place transforms from beautiful to magical.
The anticipation builds as you wait, the creek bubbling away and nocturnal critters starting to move about – and then it happens. Male fireflies descend from the thick scrub, flashing a bright yellow light which is easily mistaken for a wayward hiker’s torch. On-off-on-off he blinks, silently floating by. Sit quietly and watch as more of these tiny beetles take flight; twirling and blinking, always just out of reach.
Part fairytale, part nature documentary this experience will have you squealing like a kid. It’s best to head in before sunset so you can get familiar with the lay of the land and head torches are a must for heading back out. The fireflies tend to congregate closer to the path near the waterfall and as your eyes adjust to the darkness, you’re in for another treat as glow worms can also be seen along the creek bank.
What: Cascades Walk
Where: Macquarie Pass National Park, Albion Park
When: Mid November - mid December, about an hour after sunset
Eye to eye with whales and sharks
Bass Point Reserve is a nature-lover’s paradise. Watch osprey soar and seals loll about in the waves, but if you want to experience the truly extraordinary there are 2 options here: whales and sharks.
As humpbacks travel north to breed and calve, you can hear the young males calling as they chase lone females up the coast. And yes, they sound just like elephants! On their return in September, the mums move into the more sheltered bay, babies in tow… and this is where the fun really begins, because whale school is in session.
The adults launch themselves out of the water, slapping the surface with so much force you can hear the thwack of their fins. Babies copy their mothers, repeatedly bringing their tails down over and over, often so close you can look them in the eye and it becomes a question of who is watching who!
If you’re wanting to get your toes wet, around the corner is some of the region’s best snorkelling and diving. Bushrangers Bay is an aquatic reserve meaning it’s a no-take zone and so fish, octopus and stingrays all thrive there.
But about half way out you’ll find the star attraction: critically-endangered grey nurse shark circling slowly.
Thrill seeker or not, this is bucket list kind of stuff and worth the climb down several flights of stairs to navigate the very rocky beach. While these sharks have rows of jagged teeth, and grow up to around 3 metres in length, they are notoriously gentle. There is absolutely nothing like bobbing around in the ocean, looking down and watching as a handful of steel grey sharks go about their life just a few metres below you.
What: Bass Point Reserve
Where: Bass Point Tourist Road, Shell Cove
When: Grey nurse sharks can usually be found during summer. The northern humpback migration is from May-August, and the mums and calves can be seen from Sept-November.
Dine with stingrays
As keen as you might be to explore the stunning crescent shaped Boat Harbour Beach, trust me, you’ll want to stop off at the local caravan park and grab a bag of bait first. This isn’t for fishing in the traditional sense – it’s for feeding.
This is a shoes off, pants rolled up experience and a few minutes after you’ve stepped into the crystal-clear water – or even sooner if you splash a little or wave some of the bait around – you’ll be greeted by some truly gentle giants: stingrays.
Don’t be alarmed if, like puppies, they start to snuffle around (or even suck on!) your toes. These lovely creatures are after a quick feed and don’t have teeth as such. Their mouth is under their body and they grab at their food by hoovering it up – hence the toe sucking.
Like all animals, they will defend themselves if threatened so don’t chase or harass them and they will treat you exactly as what you are, a friendly waiter, there to cater to their every dietary need.
What: Boat Harbour Beach
Where: Manta Ray Road, Bendalong
When: All year
Feature image: Amanda De George
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