Secrets of skin serums for over 50s skin

Serums are the superheroes of skin nutrition. Just one droplet of highly concentrated active ingredients can help you get your glow on.

However, not all serums are equal. Different active ingredients have a role to perform, which might be to correct dry or oily skin, address acne or sun damage or smooth blotchy or pigmented skin.

Citro spoke with Costhetics founder Louisa McKay to dive deeper into skincare serums and how they can be used to address specific skin concerns.

Just how much serum is a good thing?

McKay says that when it comes to serums, a little dab will do you.

“One or two drops applied to thoroughly clean skin will penetrate the epidermis and do its work below the surface where it matters. Serums have smaller molecules than heavier creams and moisturisers that can only sit on the outer layers of the skin as protectors against sun and dryness," she says.

"Serums are non-comedogenic, which means they sink right in and don’t block pores or leave any residue, unless you use more of the product than you need.”

Some wise words of caution follow. Serums are not miracle cures and will not correct skin cancers, so if a particular blemish, mole, sore or bump looks suspicious, get it checked by a medical professional as soon as possible. Wise advice!

McKay also stressed that serums must always be used in conjunction with a good sunscreen.

Aussie sunshine is not our skin’s friend. Ultraviolet rays can penetrate glass, even on overcast days. New research is showing that blue light from smart devices, computers and TVs might also penetrate our skin. The daily use of a sunscreen with a sun-protection factor (SPF) 30+ is the best way to prevent skin’s premature ageing.

Which serums correct and which protect?

McKay says serums break down to be either correctors and protectors. Some will multitask.

Corrector serums will help exfoliate, brighten, smooth and repair skin. For example, serums containing vitamin C can tackle hyperpigmentation.

Serums containing retinol (vitamin A) will stimulate collagen and cell turnover, helping to reduce fine lines and wrinkles.

And for those who suffer acne and breakouts, the serum ingredient salicylic acid (derived from willow bark) will help reduce inflammation.

Protector serums will assist in hydrating and strengthening the dermal layer, shielding the skin from future damage.

A serum containing hyaluronic acid will attract and hold water molecules, and will help plump the skin with retained moisture.

Hyaluronic acid is a natural substance your body produces to keep your skin, eyes and joints lubricated.

Niacinamide (a form of vitamin B3) helps protect the skin barrier from moisture loss and will increase ceramide production.

Ceramides are the natural lipids or oils that make up over 50% of the skin’s composition and are essential for skin balance, hydration and protection. They shield us from irritants and environmental damage.

Not all serums are created equal and some have active ingredients that can aggravate the skin - think of rashes or burning sensations. And don't forget to use sunscreen over the top of serums.

The amount of active ingredients in serums varies from brand to brand, as will the results you see over time.

A word of warning about serums

McKay warns though that if you haven’t used active ingredients before, you should start low and slow and always patch test before slathering a serum all over your face.

To patch test a skin care product like a serum:

• Apply the product to a test spot twice daily for 7 to 10 days. Try the underside of your arm or the bend of your elbow or behind your ear. Use the normal amount and thickness you would use as if you were applying the product regularly.
• Leave the product on your skin for as long as the product directs you to. If you’re testing something that you would usually wash off, like a cleanser, keep it on your skin for five minutes or as long as the instructions say.
• If after 7 to 10 days you don’t have a skin reaction, such as red, itchy, or swollen skin, go ahead and use the product.
• Keep in mind that some ingredients, such as retinol and glycolic acid, can irritate your skin. This is usually temporary but may be too much for some people with sensitive skin.
• If you develop a skin reaction, gently wash the product off as soon as possible, and don’t use it again. Apply ice or petroleum jelly to relieve your skin. If your reaction to a product is severe, you may need to see a doctor to help manage your symptoms.

You can also choose serums with a lower percentage of a potentially irritating ingredient.

Ingredients like vitamin C, retinoids and AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids, used for exfoliating and brightening) can cause tingling, burning or even redness.

This is because they have a lower or more acidic pH than the skin’s natural pH – the normal range of skin pH being 4.5 to 5.5.

“Serums are for any adult who has skin and as with all skincare products, different serums can be layered, but it’s important to get that layering in the right order. Start with serums, then add moisturiser and sunscreen,” McKay says.

Know the skin you’re in

Do you have dry, oily, acne-prone, combination, sensitive, or mature skin? Do you need to hydrate or brighten dull skin, or do you wish to combat hyperpigmentation and fine lines, or something else?

Serums work best when you tailor the active ingredient to your skin concern and choose products that won’t interact or cause dermatitis.

Serums are serious skinvestment. Go forth and glow!