Travel
He said, she said: Was Malta golden for both husband and wife?
A glimpse of summer in Malta made Leonie feel proud to rediscover her roots, while the historical landmarks were a gem for Andrew.
By Leonie and Andrew Jarrett
As a couple who travels the world to make new memories, this particular trip stood out from the rest. Perhaps because it wasn’t freezing cold like their journey to Antarctica, but mostly because it was a sentimental trip for Leonie.
Leonie’s Mum is Maltese, immigrating to Melbourne with her immediate family in 1963. Leonie had been to Malta for a month as a 6-year-old but she didn’t have any memories of that time. But no matter your age, revisiting a place once called home stirs something deep – and this was certainly the case for her.
Both Leonie and Andrew were keen to explore Malta, so they spent 3 full days there in June. This was a very hot time to visit, so be warned – or stay somewhere with a pool and/or beach access like they did.
So, what were your first impressions?
Andrew
Malta, including both Valletta and the outer islands of Gozo and Comino, is jaw-droppingly impressive from first sight to last lingering look.
It is not often as a traveller you get to say a new sight or city is unique and that it really looks like nothing else. With Malta, I can safely say, “it’s one of a kind”. Its towering fortresses that envelope 2 harbours around its main city and its capital, Valletta, are so impressive that they almost look photoshopped or CGI-enhanced.
Leonie
First, I have to mention the cruise we did in 2019 where we stopped in Malta for a single night. Sailing into Valetta on a cruise ship has to be one of my travel highlights! The sea is so blue and, in summer, so is the sky. Malta sparkles in the distance and, as you cruise closer, it truly glows gold.
Back to this trip, we flew in and out so our arrival wasn’t as scenic as the cruise! After a mammoth flight delay out of Rome, we also arrived at 2am so there wasn’t much to see when we arrived.
My first impressions the next morning were the same golden hues of Valletta. Over the next couple of days, we saw gold all over Malta including: Mdina and the Cittadella at Gozo.
So, yes, gold would be my first impression. After that, the size of the fortifications – so impressive!
And the impression which surprised me was the level of English. Malta was a British Colony from 1814 to 1964 so there is widespread signage in English and everyone we encountered spoke fluent English.
Where did you stay?
Andrew
Our checklist for choosing somewhere to stay was simple. It needed to be central (that meant walking distance to Valletta’s historical quarter) and it needed to have a swimming pool or beach access so that we could cool down in the afternoon after a day’s sightseeing.
Our choice of The Grand Hotel Excelsior was a stroke of genius – barely a 500m walk to the old town and offering an enormous, lagoon swimming pool and a private harbour beach. Add to this beachfront evening dining and this hotel gets a huge recommendation from us.
Leonie
We were going to stay at St Paul’s but one of our daughters who holidayed in Malta a couple of years ago highly recommended that we stay in Valletta so we did. Good call!
The Excelsior had a massive pool (the whole hotel was massively-proportioned), a small, private beach and a few options for meals which were very reasonably-priced. We ate every dinner at the hotel – we particularly loved the beachfront restaurant.
It was very hot so we would sightsee until we were too hot and bothered to sightsee any more and then we would retreat to the sun lounges and umbrellas and cool down in the water. It was a heavenly combo!
What did you think of the food?
Andrew
This was probably the low point of our visit. We tried delicious pastizzi but, otherwise, there was very little of what I would describe as uniquely Maltese cuisine being offered.
Lots of Italian pizza and pasta and various other Mediterranean dishes were available but, sadly, few traditional Maltese dishes.
Leonie
Despite my Maltese heritage, I can’t say the food was a highlight. With one exception – ricotta pastizzi! Pastizzi are small parcels of diamond-shaped, flaky filo pastry filled with something, usually ricotta or peas but one of my sons found Nutella-filled ones a few years ago.
There was a lot of pasta but we arrived in Malta after 2 weeks holidaying in Italy, so pasta wasn’t really what we wanted. We did order it a couple of times but we never found it matched the excellent pasta we enjoyed in Italy.
What did you think of the sights?
Andrew
As an avid history lover, Malta is brimming with historical sights, facts and events. I couldn’t get enough!
From the medieval Crusader Knights of St John who built the impressive fortresses, cathedrals and medieval hospitals to the Cittadella on the smaller island of Gozo, Malta looks like a Hollywood film set.
The beauty of the untouched island of Comino and its blue lagoon is a must see too.
Leonie
I wasn’t head over heels about the food but the sights were amazing!
We witnessed the daily cannonball firing (twice actually – very fun!), we were awe-struck at the fortifications (no wonder part of “Game of Thrones” was filmed in Malta!) and we were blown away by the interior decoration of St John’s Co-Cathedral.
There is a lot of history to learn about and to see in Malta and I left hungry to know more.
What were your highlights?
Andrew
The towering honey-coloured stone of the fortress town of Valletta is the jewel in the crown of Malta. A must-see church is St John’s Co-Cathedral, home to Caravaggio’s famous painting The Beheading of St John the Baptist.
Equally, the Sacra Infermeria, the hospital built by the Knights of St John to care for the injured and convalescing soldiers of the religious crusades, cut out of stone and up to seven stories underground is as remarkable as it is impressive.
Leonie
I felt a “pull” to Malta. When person after person asked us why we had come to Malta (Europeans generally can’t get over why and how Australians travel so far to visit their country), I would say, “My Mum is Maltese.” They would smile and I would feel proud and the interaction was a real highlight for me.
I also loved our boat cruise – we booked through GetYourGuide and we loved swimming in the Crystal and Blue Lagoons. We were also dropped off at the Citadella in Gozo for a few hours and that was incredible to see.
So, too, was the fortified city of Mdina.
Anything you would do differently?
Andrew
I would stay longer and allow much more time on the main island of Malta. Probably hire a boat to explore the Grand Harbour from the sea (rather than see it only on foot). Make more of an effort to seek out and try more traditional Maltese cuisine.
Leonie
I agree with Andrew – more boat time! Other than that, the only thing I would change would be to stay for a longer period. The hotel was in a great location and I loved retreating from the heat for a swim.
Getting around by foot, taxi and Uber was easy and was definitely helped by the amount of English signage and the high level of spoken English fluency.
I loved Malta! I just needed more time!
What are your lasting impressions?
Andrew
We went to Malta for a 4-night visit to delve into the heritage of my mother-in-law’s country of birth. We left wanting more and planning a future trip of 7-10 days so that we can see and explore more of this architectural and historical gem of the Mediterranean.
Leonie
Ancient sites, English (language and tourists!) everywhere, beautiful blue skies and seas and friendly people.
Any “local” we spoke to was so excited that we were Australian as their aunt/cousin/friend lives in Australia – the excitement was infectious.
Feature image: Courtesy of Leonie Jarrett
Andrew and Leonie stayed in Malta as guests of the Grand Hotel Excelsior. Their visit to and excursions from Malta were self-funded.
About Andrew and Leonie
Andrew is 56 and before retiring he trained in marketing and owned several businesses. His mission for the rest of his life is to have fun and catch as many fish as he can!
Leonie is 56 and semi-retired. She trained in law and has also owned several businesses during her working life. Her mission for the rest of her life is to write another chapter – she’s just not sure what that is yet.
Andrew and Leonie played tennis together as teenagers and have been married for 32 years. They have four grown children and two fur baby Golden Retrievers. They have travelled to all 7 continents and to over 50 countries. Their mission for the rest of their life is to make the most of every day and to travel until they get tired of it!
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